Reflections from Myanmar

There is still an eerie calm in Yangon. Whilst the military have almost completed clearing the debris, the residents go about their daily business still evidently shell shocked over the worst natural disaster to hit Myanmar in 80 years.

For some of us who have been involved in other natural disasters, it is yet again a humbling reminder of mankind’s frailty in the face of nature and the Creator. What hit us when our team landed in Yangon, flying over the countryside, was a scene of total devastation, reminiscent of the tsunami that had struck 4 years ago, trees of 8 ft diameter levelled to the ground in the shape of a kneeling victim.

What we faced on the ground were challenges and resistance.  Resistance to outside help particularly from the west and resistance to foreigners visiting disaster struck areas.  Challenges, in terms of communications with mobile phones and CDMA reportedly costing $2000 - $2500 and internet facilities at hotels about $1 per 50 minutes.  On top of this, internet access is sometimes barred due to security reasons, and it becomes a game to see how alternative proxys can be used to send out information.

As in most other disasters, the NGOs gather around with the UN to form their cluster meetings and Yangon is no different, except for one thing, the cluster meetings are held largely in a vacuum with very little sense of what is happening on the ground.  The frustration is evident in every one’s faces as what we have to go on is the data (often under reported) provided by the government.

Before the restrictions on foreigner’s movement were made tighter last weekend, we were able to somehow visit one or two of the villages struck by the cyclone.  It is indescribable the appalling living conditions of those who have survived. In the  village of Kungyangon, in  an almost catatonic state, people were seen to be sifting through the destroyed remains of their homes. The detritus of disaster occasionally offering up possessions like mangled bicycles or touching mementoes of a life before the horror swept through the village. All too often though, it yielded the decomposing remains of those who were not quick enough to escape the deluge. 

The acrid smell of death permeated the atmosphere. There were bloated dead bodies still floating and lying in the paddy fields, which are also used by people for their drinking and bathing since there is no other source. 

It has taken us about 10 days to get our footing within Yangon and it has felt like a game of chess as we seek to make the most strategic move.  Despite the warmth and welcoming faces of the people as they realise that you are there to help, there is a feeling of being followed and being watched.  The Government Officials that we have dealt with have remarked in no uncertain terms that there will be ‘severe punishment’ for those that transgress.

In the aftermath of Cyclone Nargis, Muslim Aid launched a £2,000,000 appeal which has so far seen the distribution of dry rations, medicine and water purification through local partner.  The local partners are being trained by Muslim Aid staff to carry out water purification and to take this into the worst affected areas. 

There is much to be done as very little aid has gotten through so far.  Essential needs are still not being met and with the threat of water borne diseases still dangerously close, the crisis is just beginning.  It has just been announced that Aid Workers will be allowed in, which means that momentum will be gained as aid gets through and essential needs met over the coming days and weeks.

There is much to be done. After taking in the initial shock of how powerful the cyclone must have been to leave so much destruction, one begins to look around and take note of some of the less apparent scars – those which will take longer to heal.  Cities can always be rebuilt but the wounds of the hearts and mind will take longer.  It is plain that these wounds are deep.  One of the striking factors of this cyclone like the earthquake in China has been that many children died.

In the coming months there will be a huge need for the relief efforts to be stepped up in what has been a largely neglected country.  For now the people are in shock and will need to rely on the generosity and goodwill of their neighbours, goodwill that has remained despite the various obstacles placed thus far. But this goodwill is as exhaustible as the supplies which are needed for the refugees to live. Eventually people will have to begin looking after their own families and homes will have to be rebuilt. The worry for many people is that when the world inevitably moves on to the next newsworthy story the donations too will stop.